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🔧 Troubleshoot • Homeowner Edition

Backup Power Troubleshooting

When backup power fails, the cause is usually simple — if you check the right things in the right order. Pick what’s happening right now. This page will walk you through the most common failure points without guesswork.

⚠️
Safety First If there’s fuel smell, heat damage, sparks, water exposure, or an unknown wiring path — stop and shut down. Backfeeding and wet connections can be fatal.

Tap the symptom:

❌ Generator won’t start Fuel, oil, choke, battery, lockouts → ⚡ Runs, but house has no power Breaker, inlet, transfer switch, voltage → 🔌 Some outlets are dead GFCI upstream, AFCI issues, MWBC → 🔥 Breaker trips immediately Overload, neutral bonding, cords → 🌧️ GFCI / AFCI won’t reset Waveform + bonding conflicts → 🔋 Battery drains too fast Load reality, surge cycling, cold → 🧊 Furnace / fridge / pump won’t run Surge > capacity, soft-start, 240V → 🛑 When to stop DIY Heat, water, repeated trips, unknown wiring →

Check in this order:

  • Fuel + valve: correct fuel, fuel valve open, vent open (if equipped).
  • Oil level: many portables have low-oil shutdown and will not start if low.
  • Choke position: cold engine = choke ON; warm engine = choke OFF.
  • Electric start battery: if pull-start works but electric doesn’t, suspect battery/cables/solenoid.
  • Protection lockouts: CO sensor / overload logic may require a reset per manufacturer.
🧠
Pattern recognition Starts then dies? Often fuel/vent/choke. Cranks but won’t fire? Often stale fuel/carb varnish.

If it still won’t start: suspect stale fuel, carburetor varnish, ignition fault, or internal failure.

This is one of the most common outage scenarios. Don’t guess — verify the chain.

Check in this order:

  1. Generator breaker ON (many trip silently).
  2. Connection seated (cord fully inserted, inlet twist-lock fully engaged).
  3. Transfer switch / interlock position set to GEN properly.
  4. Correct voltage: 120V-only generator on a 240V inlet can create “weird partial power” or no power.
  5. No upstream GFCI tripped (garage/basement/exterior can kill multiple circuits).
✅
Fast win If the generator is running and your house is dark, the issue is often the transfer position or a tripped generator breaker.

Most likely cause: an upstream GFCI is tripped.

  • Reset every GFCI you have: bathrooms, kitchen, garage, basement, exterior.
  • If you have AFCI breakers, some may be sensitive to generator waveform and nuisance-trip.
  • Multi-wire branch circuits (shared neutral) can behave strangely if not fed properly.
🔎
Rule of thumb One tripped GFCI can kill a whole chain of downstream outlets — often across multiple rooms.

If a breaker trips instantly every time, stop “retrying.” Repeated trips create heat damage.

Most common reasons:

  • Overload at startup: motor surge (fridge/furnace/pump) exceeds capacity.
  • Neutral bonded twice: generator bond + panel bond can trigger protection/GFCI behavior.
  • Undersized cords: voltage drop makes motors pull more current and trip.
  • AFCI/GFCI incompatibility: nuisance trip under generator power.
  • MWBC/shared neutral issues: imbalanced return current can trip protection.
🧯
Hard stop If you see heat, melting, or burning smell — shut down and inspect connections before doing anything else.

This confuses homeowners because it looks like “bad outlets.” Often it’s not.

Why it happens (common scenario):

  • Some generators have a neutral-ground bond.
  • Your home service equipment bonds neutral-ground as well (normal for the main service).
  • Certain transfer configurations + protective devices interpret this as imbalance and trip.
⚠️
Important The “right” fix depends on your setup (portable vs standby, interlock vs transfer switch, neutral switching). Don’t defeat protection devices.

Practical move: Identify whether your generator is bonded, and whether your transfer method switches neutral. Then troubleshoot from there.

Start with reality: runtime claims are best-case lab numbers. Real homes pull harder.

Check first:

  • Actual load: watts you’re pulling vs inverter rating.
  • Surge cycling: compressors/air handlers starting repeatedly.
  • Temperature: cold reduces battery capacity fast.
  • Battery age/chemistry: older packs sag under load sooner.
✅
Translation If batteries drop fast, the system is usually undersized — not “broken.”

Most common causes:

  • Locked rotor surge exceeds generator/inverter capacity.
  • No soft-start (HVAC and some pumps are brutal at startup).
  • Shared circuits with other loads pushing you over the edge.
  • 240V mismatch (trying to run a 240V load from a 120V source).
🧠
Key insight “It runs sometimes” usually means you’re right on the edge. Reduce loads or address surge.

Call a licensed electrician or generator tech if you hit any of these:

  • Repeated breaker trips you can’t explain.
  • Burn marks / heat / melting at plugs, inlets, or panel areas.
  • Water intrusion anywhere in the power path.
  • Transfer switch behavior is inconsistent or unclear.
  • Code uncertainty (neutral bonding, grounding, inlet type, backfeed risk).
🛑
Hard boundary If you can’t describe the wiring path confidently, you’re in “stop” territory.
Do this first:
    ✅
    Best practice Fix the chain: source → breaker → connection → transfer → loads. Most failures are one link in that chain.
    🧭
    Next steps (link these to your tools) These buttons are placeholders — replace href values with your actual URLs.
    Load Calculator → Runtime Estimator → Transfer Switch Guide → Wiring & Safety Guide →

    Note: Your city/county inspector (AHJ) has final authority. This page is educational and safety-first.

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