Backup Power Troubleshooting
When backup power fails, the cause is usually simple — if you check the right things in the right order. Pick what’s happening right now. This page will walk you through the most common failure points without guesswork.
Tap the symptom:
Check in this order:
- Fuel + valve: correct fuel, fuel valve open, vent open (if equipped).
- Oil level: many portables have low-oil shutdown and will not start if low.
- Choke position: cold engine = choke ON; warm engine = choke OFF.
- Electric start battery: if pull-start works but electric doesn’t, suspect battery/cables/solenoid.
- Protection lockouts: CO sensor / overload logic may require a reset per manufacturer.
If it still won’t start: suspect stale fuel, carburetor varnish, ignition fault, or internal failure.
This is one of the most common outage scenarios. Don’t guess — verify the chain.
Check in this order:
- Generator breaker ON (many trip silently).
- Connection seated (cord fully inserted, inlet twist-lock fully engaged).
- Transfer switch / interlock position set to GEN properly.
- Correct voltage: 120V-only generator on a 240V inlet can create “weird partial power” or no power.
- No upstream GFCI tripped (garage/basement/exterior can kill multiple circuits).
Most likely cause: an upstream GFCI is tripped.
- Reset every GFCI you have: bathrooms, kitchen, garage, basement, exterior.
- If you have AFCI breakers, some may be sensitive to generator waveform and nuisance-trip.
- Multi-wire branch circuits (shared neutral) can behave strangely if not fed properly.
If a breaker trips instantly every time, stop “retrying.” Repeated trips create heat damage.
Most common reasons:
- Overload at startup: motor surge (fridge/furnace/pump) exceeds capacity.
- Neutral bonded twice: generator bond + panel bond can trigger protection/GFCI behavior.
- Undersized cords: voltage drop makes motors pull more current and trip.
- AFCI/GFCI incompatibility: nuisance trip under generator power.
- MWBC/shared neutral issues: imbalanced return current can trip protection.
This confuses homeowners because it looks like “bad outlets.” Often it’s not.
Why it happens (common scenario):
- Some generators have a neutral-ground bond.
- Your home service equipment bonds neutral-ground as well (normal for the main service).
- Certain transfer configurations + protective devices interpret this as imbalance and trip.
Practical move: Identify whether your generator is bonded, and whether your transfer method switches neutral. Then troubleshoot from there.
Start with reality: runtime claims are best-case lab numbers. Real homes pull harder.
Check first:
- Actual load: watts you’re pulling vs inverter rating.
- Surge cycling: compressors/air handlers starting repeatedly.
- Temperature: cold reduces battery capacity fast.
- Battery age/chemistry: older packs sag under load sooner.
Most common causes:
- Locked rotor surge exceeds generator/inverter capacity.
- No soft-start (HVAC and some pumps are brutal at startup).
- Shared circuits with other loads pushing you over the edge.
- 240V mismatch (trying to run a 240V load from a 120V source).
Call a licensed electrician or generator tech if you hit any of these:
- Repeated breaker trips you can’t explain.
- Burn marks / heat / melting at plugs, inlets, or panel areas.
- Water intrusion anywhere in the power path.
- Transfer switch behavior is inconsistent or unclear.
- Code uncertainty (neutral bonding, grounding, inlet type, backfeed risk).
Note: Your city/county inspector (AHJ) has final authority. This page is educational and safety-first.